A taster...

The Long Journey Home...

Just a quick posting to say that only half of us made it home last night. All of us got sick at some point over the course of our journey from Delhi to Vancouver. Emma was so sick that she couldn't make the second flight from London to Vancouver, but fortunately Mum was staying on a few extra days in England so she met up with her and they are now at Petersfield. Dad & I are ok, but with digestive systems still under a bit of stress.

It's too bad that our trip ended the way it did, because otherwise it has been fantastic. Will update later today and tomorrow (with photos too!)

Ghayabari

Am back again after my day in Delhi. It was actually quite good fun on my own (don't worry, I talked to the rest of the family and they had a great time in Agra). My rudimentary Hindi was enough to earn me a marriage proposal from a guard at the National Museum, who was extremely impressed with meri tora-tora Hindi (with my very small bit of Hindi). To be fair, he must have been extremely bored, as the only guard in a room on the top floor that was half under renovation. I also managed to fit in a Bollywood film, one that was so ridiculous I didn't need to understand the dialogue to be entertained (I think I probably liked it better not understanding much - it wasn't exactly high quality)!

So, back to four days ago. It turns out that it only takes 2 hours to drive directly from Darjeeling to Ghayabari. I think it never took me less than 4 hours when trying to catch a bus/taxi on my own. Because the main road was closed due to an enormous landslide (Mr Thapa took us to see it once we were there), we had to take a shortcut, which entailed a series of extremely steep switchbacks. I think Mum gained a few extra grey hairs over the course of that drive, though I'm pretty sure she kept her eyes shut the entire time. Fortunately, we had a car with good brakes (they were certainly tested throughout that trip), and an extremely good driver, and arrived safe and sound.

To say that I was excited is almost an understatement. It felt really surreal to be back. Even after only a year and a half, Ghayabari had already felt so far away, almost like a dream. Everything was so familiar. It was incredible to introduce my family to my "Indian parents", and I had an enormous grin on my face for pretty much the entire day. The Thapas were in good form, including Pranit (their eldest son, who is now teaching at the school), and the unforgettable Sweetie (who looked pretty good considering she'd recently sat too close to a fire and singed off some fur). The school looks wonderful, now painted a bright blue (to match its name better, I guess), and with permanent walls upstairs (there were just temporary wood walls before). They are also expanding it, and have just recently began constructing three new rooms in the school grounds. Mr Thapa isn't sure which classes exactly will go into the new rooms, but said that it would probably be the noisy ones as they're farther away from the office!

After a delicious lunch (oh, how I had missed Mrs Thapa's cooking!), Mr Thapa took us all off to tour the area in his (literally) brand-new van. We saw this incredible landslide that has managed to block the road for about 6 months already - though "obliterated the road" might be more accurate. It was huge (I WILL try to add in pictures when I get back, I promise), and though they're working to clear it, there probably won't be a road there for another 6 months. Miraculously, nobody died, though it had destroyed several houses. We then drove down to Tindharia to visit Regal Academy, which has already more than doubled in students since when I was teaching. After a quick stop for coffee at 'the loop' (I don't actually remember its actual name), we went for a walk throughout the local tea estate, and watched the sun setting over the plains. It was wonderful.

Mr Thapa had a trick up his sleeve for that evening, and created a wonderful bonfire outside in the grounds that managed to keep everyone warm with minimal smoke. Rather a lot of whiskey that both Mr Thapa and Dad had brought also helped keep everyone warm! It was a fantastic evening, and I think the whole family now loves the Thapas as much as I do.

The only downside to our visit was that it was so brief. We had to leave early the next morning to get to our next destination, which was Gorumaya (I'm sure I'm spelling that wrong) Nature Reserve. It was really sad to say goodbye to the Thapas, but I know that every time I come back to India (and I will!), I will go to see them again. Hopefully it will be soon.

Darjeeling

Now in Delhi, we finally have internet access again (not something I've been missing much, to be honest). I'm on my own today, having opted out of the day-trip to see the Taj Mahal. Our tight schedule (made more so by our delays in getting here) meant we only had a day to go to Agra and back. As we've spent rather a lot of time in transit over the past couple of days (more on that later), I decided I'd skip seeing the Taj again, and hang out here in Delhi for a day. It's a bit rainy and dreary here right now (Delhi is known for fog and mist at this time of year), but hopefully the weather will clear a bit.

The famous Kachanjunga Mountain - 3rd highest in the world

At the Tibetan Refugee Self-Help Centre

Our time in Darjeeling was fantastic. I'm pretty sure that the family is now in love with the area as much as I am. We spent Christmas Eve and Christmas Day at the Windamere, which was incredible. The hotel is beyond charming, and all of the staff are really lovely. On Christmas Eve we had a chilly 'joy ride' on the Darjeeling train, and I introduced the family to the wonders of railway chai (served in tiny cups, piping hot and super-sweet, the perfect drink to warm you up). In the afternoon we went to the Darjeeling zoo/Himalayan Mountaineering Institute, and all fell in love with the Red Pandas. Seriously, few sights are more adorable than watching a red panda eat bamboo for dinner. Dad started imagining how cute one would look curled up in between a Burmese cat and a Duck Toller.

We ended the day sipping tea and listening to Christmas carols sung by a Darjeeling youth choir, which ended with everyone (guests and singers) dancing to a traditional Nepali song. So much fun! Then it was off to the bar for a pink gin and entertainment - a vaudeville-style (kind of? Nor quite sure how to describe it) duo called Hot Tottie, who were fabulous. Dinner (like lunch) was a 4 course affair, with a soup course, a few traditional English dishes, some Indian dishes, dessert, and tea. All of it was absolutely incredible, and it was next to impossible to show anything resembling restraint. Then it was off to bed, with a fire and hot water bottles to keep us warm.

We had an early start on Christmas Day, with a knock on the door at 5:30am. Bleary-eyed and still half-asleep, I opened the door to find most of the staff in front of me, singing Christmas carols! Two red stockings were at my feet, with labels to "Miss H Norris" and "Miss E Norris", and a maid came rushing in with tea in a thermos for us. It was somewhat surreal, but so wonderful.

Since we were up so early, we managed a quick walk before breakfast (only 3 courses this time), and then visited a nearby tea estate. Before our quick tour around the factory we drank (and bought) tea from a retired tea picker, a hilarious lady who explained to us all about the tea (and was an extremely smooth saleswoman). After lunch we visited one of the nearby monasteries, and spent the rest of the afternoon on the complete opposite end of the cultural spectrum, shopping madly for gifts and appropriate clothing for Christmas dinner's "semi-formal to formal attire" dress code (aka Dad had to find a tie - at least it was a cheap one for once!)

Despite running a bit late (too much shopping!), we still managed to catch more Christmas carols at the Windamere, this time accompanied by hot toddies (most welcome, as we were outside). Again, the carols ended with dancing to traditional Nepali songs, which is a great way to warm up. Despite feeling somewhat embarrassed for our North-American awkwardness at dancing, we enjoyed it very much.

Christmas dinner was absolutely fantastic. All of the tables of the dining room were joined together so that all of the guests sat together at one long table. I lost count how many courses we were served. The highlights of the meal included 3 different types of meat (ham, turkey, AND goose), a delicious little bit of steamed fish, and the Christmas pudding (just as good as Mum's, if I dare say it), but these were just a few of many different dishes. It was also really good fun to sit all together with all of the other guests. We sat next to a lovely Indian family, who invited us to stay with them in Mumbai if we ever visit (I warned them that I am very much likely to take them up on that offer).

The next morning we were up early to leave and see the Thapas. The Windamere even waved us off and gave us a packed lunch, a lovely touch. There were several guests who were repeat visitors at Christmas (one couple had been going there for Christmas for 19 years), and I can see why.

Well, this has taken me about an hour already, and I want to take advantage of the (sort of) clearing weather, so I'm going to end here for now, and may do a part 2 later this afternoon if I have time.

Lots of love to everyone,

Hilary xxox

We Made It!

We're here! We've arrived! Finally! It was uncertain that we'd get here right up to the last minute. Our flight leaving Vancouver was delayed by two hours, thus cutting what was supposed to be a 2.5hr layover in Hong Kong into a very tight 30 minutes. We were afraid it was suddenly going to be Christmas in Hong Kong, but many thanks to the Hong Kong airport staff, who had someone to (literally) run us through security and to our next departure gate. I don't think I've ever been so pleased to be on a plane before! Air Jet (our airline to Delhi) gets full points for style, by the way. Not only did we have a delicious meal, but it was served with real (i.e. not plastic) cutlery and a real glass!

We had barely 12 hours in Delhi, I think. Our flight got in at about 11:30pm, but the staff at our hotel greeted us with "good morning" by the time we arrived! Then we were up again at 5 to get ready to go back to the airport to fly out to Bagdogra airport (the closest airport to Darjeeling).

After endless hours (days? I don't even know) we finally made it here to Darjeeling. I am so happy (and relieved) to be here - we all are. I'm so excited to be able to show my family around to all my favourite places here. It's such a weird feeling being here with them (in a good way). I often thought about the day when I would come back and show them Darjeeling, and now I am! And so much sooner than I'd expected. I had an enormous grin on my face the entire drive up, I was so excited.

Darjeeling is perhaps even more beautiful than I remember. Pictures soon, I promise - I'm not sure our internet cafe is set up for that, and it's going to take me awhile to remember how to upload pictures! Our hotel is lovely - the couple who run it are so sweet, and our rooms are lovely too. They're huge as well! Each "room" is actually a suite with a sitting room, bedroom and bathroom. As Darjeeling gets pretty chilly this time of year, especially at night, they lit up the fireplaces for us, which made things lovely and cozy.

Our plan for today is to wander around Darjeeling, and maybe go to the Tibetan Refugee Self Help Centre this afternoon. We booked a flight for a "joy-ride" on the steam train tomorrow morning, can't wait!

Much love to everyone!

Famiglia di Norris

Travel Update

As the last post might have implied, the Norris Family is still going to India - just a little bit later than expected! After 3 and a half hours waiting in line at the airport yesterday afternoon, Mum and Dad managed to get BA to rebook us to go via Hong Kong tomorrow morning. While it's disappointing to lose out on an already short trip, we will still make our flight to Darjeeling, which is kind of the focus of the trip. We will still have a couple of days in Delhi on our way back from Darj, so losing out on the first few days isn't the end of the world.

This extra day and a half here has given us more time to hang out with the animals, and to re-think our packing (several times), but it still feels a little bit frustrating. Dad's looking forward to checking out the Hong Kong International Airport (??? - not quite sure why, as most airports are pretty similar, regardless of their location), but I'm not sure that anyone's looking forward to a 12-13 hour flight. But hey, at least we're still going!!!

Here's hoping no freak weather in Hong Kong (thankfully, typhoon season is over), or here for that matter!

The Polite Canadian's Hindi Phrasebook

Hello - namaste नमस्ते

Thank you - shukriya शुक्रिया

Excuse me/ sorry - maaf keeji-yeh माफ़ कीजिए

You're welcome - koi baat naheen कोई बात नहीं

How are you - Aap kais-eh hain? आप कैसे हैं

It was nice to meet you - Aap se milkar bahut khoosi hui आप से मिलकर बहुत खुसी हुई