Darjeeling

Now in Delhi, we finally have internet access again (not something I've been missing much, to be honest). I'm on my own today, having opted out of the day-trip to see the Taj Mahal. Our tight schedule (made more so by our delays in getting here) meant we only had a day to go to Agra and back. As we've spent rather a lot of time in transit over the past couple of days (more on that later), I decided I'd skip seeing the Taj again, and hang out here in Delhi for a day. It's a bit rainy and dreary here right now (Delhi is known for fog and mist at this time of year), but hopefully the weather will clear a bit.

The famous Kachanjunga Mountain - 3rd highest in the world

At the Tibetan Refugee Self-Help Centre

Our time in Darjeeling was fantastic. I'm pretty sure that the family is now in love with the area as much as I am. We spent Christmas Eve and Christmas Day at the Windamere, which was incredible. The hotel is beyond charming, and all of the staff are really lovely. On Christmas Eve we had a chilly 'joy ride' on the Darjeeling train, and I introduced the family to the wonders of railway chai (served in tiny cups, piping hot and super-sweet, the perfect drink to warm you up). In the afternoon we went to the Darjeeling zoo/Himalayan Mountaineering Institute, and all fell in love with the Red Pandas. Seriously, few sights are more adorable than watching a red panda eat bamboo for dinner. Dad started imagining how cute one would look curled up in between a Burmese cat and a Duck Toller.

We ended the day sipping tea and listening to Christmas carols sung by a Darjeeling youth choir, which ended with everyone (guests and singers) dancing to a traditional Nepali song. So much fun! Then it was off to the bar for a pink gin and entertainment - a vaudeville-style (kind of? Nor quite sure how to describe it) duo called Hot Tottie, who were fabulous. Dinner (like lunch) was a 4 course affair, with a soup course, a few traditional English dishes, some Indian dishes, dessert, and tea. All of it was absolutely incredible, and it was next to impossible to show anything resembling restraint. Then it was off to bed, with a fire and hot water bottles to keep us warm.

We had an early start on Christmas Day, with a knock on the door at 5:30am. Bleary-eyed and still half-asleep, I opened the door to find most of the staff in front of me, singing Christmas carols! Two red stockings were at my feet, with labels to "Miss H Norris" and "Miss E Norris", and a maid came rushing in with tea in a thermos for us. It was somewhat surreal, but so wonderful.

Since we were up so early, we managed a quick walk before breakfast (only 3 courses this time), and then visited a nearby tea estate. Before our quick tour around the factory we drank (and bought) tea from a retired tea picker, a hilarious lady who explained to us all about the tea (and was an extremely smooth saleswoman). After lunch we visited one of the nearby monasteries, and spent the rest of the afternoon on the complete opposite end of the cultural spectrum, shopping madly for gifts and appropriate clothing for Christmas dinner's "semi-formal to formal attire" dress code (aka Dad had to find a tie - at least it was a cheap one for once!)

Despite running a bit late (too much shopping!), we still managed to catch more Christmas carols at the Windamere, this time accompanied by hot toddies (most welcome, as we were outside). Again, the carols ended with dancing to traditional Nepali songs, which is a great way to warm up. Despite feeling somewhat embarrassed for our North-American awkwardness at dancing, we enjoyed it very much.

Christmas dinner was absolutely fantastic. All of the tables of the dining room were joined together so that all of the guests sat together at one long table. I lost count how many courses we were served. The highlights of the meal included 3 different types of meat (ham, turkey, AND goose), a delicious little bit of steamed fish, and the Christmas pudding (just as good as Mum's, if I dare say it), but these were just a few of many different dishes. It was also really good fun to sit all together with all of the other guests. We sat next to a lovely Indian family, who invited us to stay with them in Mumbai if we ever visit (I warned them that I am very much likely to take them up on that offer).

The next morning we were up early to leave and see the Thapas. The Windamere even waved us off and gave us a packed lunch, a lovely touch. There were several guests who were repeat visitors at Christmas (one couple had been going there for Christmas for 19 years), and I can see why.

Well, this has taken me about an hour already, and I want to take advantage of the (sort of) clearing weather, so I'm going to end here for now, and may do a part 2 later this afternoon if I have time.

Lots of love to everyone,

Hilary xxox